MeLange Cosmetics
Mineral Makeup and QuintEssentials Skincare

Ingredient Dictionary

ACETIC ACID: Occurs naturally in apples, grapes, oranges, skimmed milk and a variety of other fruits and plants. It has disinfecting properties

ACACIA GUM: A soothing mucilage, thickener and stabilizer.

ACEROLA BERRY: Rich in sugars, minerals & flavonoids. A powerful source of vitamin C that helps stimulate connective tissue formation and the collagen-elastin network.

ALGAE: Seaweed and kelp contain those same vital nutrients, trace elements, and amino acids present in human blood plasma. Because of this, they can penetrate the skin more readily than most other ingredients. Minerals from these algae are rich in anti-oxidants, vitamins, and mucilage that can protect, hydrate and soften the skin.

ALLANTOIN: A natural compound occurring in herbs such as comfrey, wheat and sugar beets. It can also be extracted from the urine of most animals, including humans (urea). It is an effective healing agent that is easily absorbed through the skin helping to promote cellular renewal. It has a soothing and softening effect on the skin.

ALMOND GLYCERIDES: Softening, smoothing, and soothing to rough irregular skin tone.

ALMOND MEAL: The residue that remains after almond oil has been expressed; it is an excellent meal to use for exfoliation.

ALMOND OIL: Oil high in moisturizing fatty acids.

ALOE VERA GEL: A concentration derived from one of the oldest medicinal plants known.

  1. It has remarkable healing properties that can draw and hold oxygen to the skin.
  2.  It is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available.
  3. The plants composition is similar to that of human blood plasma and seawater and, because its pH is the same as the human skin, it is extremely soothing and protective. It is a natural astringent!

AMINO ACIDS: The building blocks of protein. Some amino acids (essential amino acids) are not produced in the body and must be supplied externally. They are necessary for the hair, skin, nail and connective tissue growth.

AONORI: A green algae containing large amounts of sulfated polysaccharides providing water-retaining properties for deep tissue moisture.

APPLES: Rich in natural pectin, containing polysaccharides, vitamin B, flavonoids and a high level of “ malic” acid. This acid has been scientifically proven to be one of the 5 most beneficial AHAs that help stimulate and speed skin cell renewal. The other acids are “glycolic”, from the heart of the raw cane sugar plant, “citric”, from citrus fruit, “lactic” from milk, and “tartaric” from fruit fermentation, similar to that found in wine sediment. Astringent; smoothes and tightens. Contains zinc.

APPLE CIDER: Detoxifying. When added to a toner’s formulation it acts as an “acid rinse” to adjust the skin’s own pH.

APRICOT EXTRACT: Rich in vitamin A, beta-carotene and zinc, it has softening, cleansing, and soothing properties.

ASCORBIC ACID: (Vitamin C). An anti-oxidant that plays an essential role in building collagen, the connective tissue that holds us together. The bioflavonoids (like rutin/ hesperidin etc.) found in fresh food, especially citrus fruits, help promote the effectiveness of vitamin C and build capillary strength

AVOCADO OIL: Natural oil rich in vitamins and minerals. It is an excellent skin conditioner and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin.

AZULENE: An essential oil derived from the German chamomile flower (matricaria chamomilla). It is an excellent analgesic, detoxifier, and anti-inflammatory, and extremely soothing and calming to the skin.

ANGELICA: (Angelica archangelica). An herb with bactericidal and fungicidal properties, it is also calming to the skin

BAKING SODA: Sodium bicarbonate. Adjust pH, stabilizes viscosity. Aids in cleansing oily skin.

BANANA EXTRACT: Contains vitamins A, B, and F. It softens, and smoothes the skin.

BARLEY: A demulcent. Soothing. Combined with tomato, it helps improve penetration, creating a delivery system to suspend the critical components and facilitate delivery into the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis consisting of dead cells that slough off.

BEE PROPOLIS: Tree resin collected by bees to line their hives; it is antiseptic and possibly anti-biotic.

BEESWAX: Obtained from the honeycomb of the honeybee. Used as an emulsifier, thickener.

BENTONITE: Natural clay from volcanic ash. Used in facial masks for it’s drawing abilities.

BETA-CAROTENE: Precursor of Vitamin A occurring naturally in plants, especially abundant in carrots, papaya and algae. It possesses both healing and cellular renewal properties.

BIOTIN: One of the B complex vitamins used to improve the texture of creams and add body and shine to hair products.

BISABALOL: Chamomile oil. Moisturizing, soothing and anti-inflammatory.

BLUE GREEN ALGAE: The smallest and most primitive of plants that contain chlorophyll in their protoplasm. Their unicellular bodies contain all the biological constituents necessary for life functions. Hydrates and protects skin.

BLUE MALLOW: Cleansing, non-irritating, and softening.

BROMELAIN: An enzyme derived from pineapple. Digests dead protein, as in surface skin cells (used in meat tenderizers)

BUTYL PARABEN: A member of the paraben family of petrochemicals commonly used as a preservative to prevent mold, fungus, and bacteria.

CALENDULA: (Marigold) Astringent, cleansing, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, soothing, softening and an anti-oxidant.

CHAMOMILE: Healing, extremely soothing, and moisturizing.

CARRAGEEN: A gel-forming polysaccharide found in the “red algae” seaweed known as “Irish moss”. Soothing, and a natural emulsifier.

CARROT JUICE: High in both alpha & beta-carotenoids (possibly more powerful than beta carotene alone) which are responsible for Pro-vitamin A activity in formulation. Soothing and healing.

CARROT SEED OIL: An essential oil used in formulation to help quiet dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and rashes. It’s high content of Vitamins A, C, B and B2 relieves dryness in mature skin.

CITRIC ACID: Found in plants and citrus fruits. This organic acid is a pH adjuster and acts as a preservative and anti-oxidant.

CITRUS BIOFLAVONOIDS: Essential support molecules for vitamin C to have the greatest benefits. Acts as free radical scavengers.

CHLOROPHYLL: The green component of plants that has antiseptic and anti-fungal properties.

CLARY SAGE: Antiseptic, astringent, clarifying, and softening.

COCOA BUTTER: Derived from the cocoa plant, cocoa butter is used as an emollient.

COCONUT OIL: Coconut oil is expressed from coconut kernels. This highly saturated fat is commonly used to promote lather in soaps and gel. Wonderfully emollient and has cooling properties.

CO-ENZYME Q 10: A natural substance found in every cell of the human body. In our mid twenties its activity decreases. Naturally occurring in the tissue of plants, Co-enzyme Q 10 (also known as “ubiquinone”) is a vitamin-like anti-oxidant that boosts cellular activity. It helps to fortify the skin’s defenses against UV damage, while reducing the appearance of wrinkles, strengthening cell membranes, and providing the skin with new energy.

CONEFLOWER: (Echinacea) Anti-inflammatory, soothing to skin and scalp.

COLTSFOOT: Soothing, and healing.

COMFREY: One of the most famed healing plants; it contains allantoin, a substance that promotes the growth of connective tissue and is easily absorbed through the skin. Moisturizing, rejuvenating!

CORNSTARCH: Starch obtained from corn and used as an oil absorbent in cosmetics

CUCUMBER: An anti-inflammatory. It has an extremely soothing effect on the skin.

DECYL -POLYGLUCOSE: Vegetable based surfactant.

DRY MILK: Like liquid milk it contains “natural” lactic acid. (Moisturizing properties).

DULSE: A flat leaved red sea weed (“Fucus”). It is high in bio-nutritional vitamins including B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and Beta-carotene. It stimulates connective tissue repair and is cell energizing.

ELLAGIC ACID: Ellagic acid is a compound found in raspberries, strawberries, cranberries, walnuts, pecans, pomegranates, and other plant foods. A super antioxidant.

EMULSIFYING WAX: Vegetable waxes that are treated so that they mix more easily with other ingredients.

ENZYMES: Protein that act as a catalyst in some chemical reactions.

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL: Calming, cleansing, and moisturizing. High in essential fatty acids; especially gamma-linolenic acid.

EYEBRIGHT: Astringent, cleansing.

FATTY ACIDS: (Essential Fatty Acids or Vitamin F) Necessary for regulating healthy skin. Helps prevent premature aging.

FENNEL: Cleansing, anti-bacterial, rejuvenating.

GERANIUM: Astringent, cleansing, moistening, softening, stimulating.

GINGER: Purges and stimulates.

GLYCERIDES: Any class used as a texturizer and/ or emollient.

GLYCERIN: A humectant (water-attracting/binding ingredient), emulsifier, and emollient.

GLYCERYL STEARATE: Emulsifier and humectant. Produced from fatty acids and glycerin. Readily penetrates the skin.

GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS: Found in all plants. Sodium hyaluronate and other glycosaminoglucans are vital moisturizers and lubricants present in the interstitial spaces between epidermal cells. The absence of these lubricating moisturizers can accelerate the deterioration of the skin’s collagen, resulting in the loss of elasticity, flexibility and tonicity. They are conditioning, moisturizing, and promote suppleness & firmness.

GRAPES: Powerful free radical scavenger/anti-oxidant rich in sugars, minerals, flavonoids, vitamins in B group. Promotes cellular health rejuvenation. Percentage of AHAs: 10 citric, 5 malic, 10 tartaric.

GRAPEFRUIT: Stimulating, astringent, cleansing, exfoliating…anti-viral, a free-radical invader. Percentage of AHAs: 15 citric, 2.5 glycolic, 2.50 malic, 5 lactic.

GRAPEFRUIT SEED EXTRACT: Extracted from grapefruit seeds and used in combination with propylene glycol and glycerin as a preservative, bactericide, and stabilizer.

GRAPE SEED OIL: Ultra fine oil with especially non-allergenic properties. Free-radical scavenger.

GREEN PAPAYA: It is an excellent free-radical scavenger and cellular renewal ingredient with the ability to digest protein, selecting only dead cells without harming the living ones. Green or un-ripened fruit contains the highest content of “papain”. As the fruit matures this powerful enzyme decreases.

GUAR GUM: A natural resin from the seeds of an Asian tree. Thickener, plasticizer, and emulsifier.

GUAVA: Soothing and moisturizing, guava also contains vitamins A and C, beta-carotene and zinc.

HAMAMELIS WATER: (Witch hazel) an astringent herb that possesses the ability to soothe the skin.

HONEY: A natural skin softener used in formulation as an emollient, humectant! Honey is anti-fungal and anti-bacterial, suggesting that it contains anti-microbial ingredients. It offers high levels of hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide stimulates white blood cells that initiate the body’s immune response to infection. Honey contains other significant amounts of vitamins, including vitamin C and trace amounts of iron, copper, manganese, calcium, potassium, sodium, phosphorus and magnesium, all possibly adding to Honey’s wound healing effect.

HYALURONIC ACID: Collagen and elastin supporter. A protein occurring in the skin that appears to bind water in the interstitial spaces between skin cells while it forms a gel-like substance to hold these cells together.

IRISH MOSS: Brownish purple algae that grows attached to rocks at low tide marks. It is a rich source of the emollient and moisture binding substance carrageen, and many micro-nutrients.

IRON OXIDE: A naturally occurring compound of iron and oxygen. Used as a natural colorant.

JASMINE: Moisturizing; calming to the skin.

JOJOBA OIL: (Technically liquid wax). The oil is expressed from the vanilla shaped beans found on shrubs in the arid deserts of southwest America. A plant oil most similar to skin’s own sebum; it can effectively penetrate the skin because of its small molecular size.

KAOLIN: A very fine white “China” clay with drawing and tightening properties that gently absorbs surface oil secreted by the skin. It can stimulate circulation deep into the capillaries.

KOJIC ACID: Derived from sugar mold. Studies have found it to prevent the formation of melanin.

KUKUI NUT OIL: From the Hawaiian kukui nut, it is very emollient, very moisturizing.

LACTIC ACID: One of the five most beneficial AHAs, it is naturally occurring in milk fermentation. A mild exfoliant that helps reduce wrinkles and improve the skin’s texture.

LACTOSE PEROXIDASE & GLUCOSE OXIDAISE: One part of this enzyme system is extracted from milk whey, the other is a naturally occurring nutritional carbohydrate sourced from microbial culture. These natural enzymes work together to prevent spoilage and bacterial growth in natural formulas.

LAMINARIA DIGITATA: A giant kelp, rich in iodine and other trace elements and co-enzymes, make it valuable as a skin supplement for normalizing cellular function.

LAVENDER OIL: Astringent, calming, cleansing, moisturizing, softening, rejuvenating…and soothing with anti-bacterial properties.

LECITHIN: Present in all living cells it is a waxy oil, derived from soybeans and eggs, that has great water binding abilities. Acts as an anti-oxidant, and emulsifier.

LEMON: Antibacterial, softening, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidant, antiseptic. Percentage of AHAs: 15 citric, 2.5 glycolic, 2.5 malic, 5 lactic.

LEMON GRASS OIL: Distilled from the grassy herb of the same name; it purifies, and hydrates.

LEMON OIL: Expressed from the outer rind of the lemon, it acts as a mild bleach that can brighten dull skin and calm redness. Naturally astringent, antiseptic and bactericidal; abundant in vitamins A, B & C.

LICORICE ROOT: Rebalances dermal cells & helps reduce the formation of melanin, (pigment that gives skin color); has significant healing effects on many skin diseases. Firming, soothing.

LIMNANTHIS ALBA OIL: From the seeds of the one year old Limnanthis Alba plants of Oregon. Its 97% fatty acid content and small molecule structure, make it one of the most penetrating oils available in skin care…and…it is one of the most stable lipids known.

LIME OIL: Antiseptic, bactericidal and restorative; high in vitamins A, B & C.

LINOLEIC ACID: Essential fatty acid.

LINOLENIC ACID: Essential fatty acid.

LYCOPENE: Abundant in the red flesh and skin of the tomato. It appears in very high concentration when tomatoes are processed…and is the most active carotenoid (one of nature’s most important anti-oxidant families) in terms of anti-oxidant activity. It appears to strengthen cellular integrity and function. (Lycopene is one of the top 3 carotenoids found in human tissue and blood plasma). It is more than twice as powerful as beta-carotene at quenching free radicals.

MANDARIN OIL: Antiseptic, toning and bactericidal.

MAGNESIUM: A lightweight mineral occurring in nature. It is especially abundant in specific varieties of sea algae and salts from the sea. Magnesium can help re-mineralize and soothe the skin.

MANGANESE: A mineral occurring abundantly in mineral mud, sea salts and specific sea plants.

METHYLPARABEN: A preservative with anti-microbial abilities that prevents the formation of bacteria, and is effective in very low concentrations.

METHYLSULFONYYLMETHANE: (MSM) An organic bio-available form of sulfur, which is the “nuts and bolts” of the skin proteins. The sulfur bond is responsible for the strength, shape and resilience of the collagen, elastin, and keratin structures of the skin.

MICA: A transparent mineral that is mined from the earth. It can be opalescent, sparkling or completely matte. It is often treated with iron oxides to make brilliant colors and used in mineral powders for its’ “slip” and light reflecting qualities.

MUGWORT: A stimulant. When combined in a complex with Algae, it has anti-stinging, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties.

MUCOPOLYSACCARIDES: A gelatinous, basic component of the skin. Helps maintain a moist environment for collagen, elastin and dermal cells while providing support for connective tissue and mucous membranes. A humectant and skin softener.

OAT BETA GLUCANS: A blend of oat extract and refined oat proteins. Together they form an invisible layer over the skin to help retain moisture while promoting the repair of skin cells. High levels of naturally occurring anti-oxidants help protect against cellular damage. Soothing, healing! OATS: Calming, cleansing, softening, and moisturizing.

OLEIC ACID: A fatty acid occurring as a glyceride, triolein, in nearly all fats, and in many oils: olive, almond and cod-liver.

ORANGE OIL: (Sweet blossom). Astringent, bactericidal, moistening, softening and rejuvenating.

PALMAROSA OIL: Brings exceptional hydration to the skin. Effectively renews skin cells.

PAPAIN: An enzyme found in papaya, most potent from un-ripe green papaya. Dissolves dead skin cells.

PAPAYA: See “papain”

PEACH: Rich in sugars, minerals (zinc), vitamins (vitamins A & C, beta carotene) and organic acids, particularly citric and malic. Moisturizing, soothing, toning, exfoliating. Percentage of AHAs: 10 citric, 5malic, 5 tartaric, 5 salicylic.

PECTIN: An enzyme extracted from citrus fruits and apples. Emulsifier, thickener, soothing.

PEG 120 METHY GLUCOSE DIOLEATE: Conditioning agent from corn.

PINEAPPLE JUICE: Contains abundance of the enzyme “bromelin” that dissolves dead skin cells.

PISTACHIO: Nut rich in calcium, thiamine, phosphorus, iron and vitamin A. Percentage of AHAs: 10 citric, 3.5 glycolic, 6 malic, 3.5 lactic, 2 tartaric.

PLANTAIN: Cell proliferating, astringent and healing.

POLYSORBATE 20: Derived from sorbitol. Used as a stabilizer. It has a soothing effect on the skin.

PROPYLPARABEN: Used as a preservative, bactericide and fungicide, it is effective against a large variety of contaminants at very low concentration.

PROTEIN: Necessary for all cellular functions. Protein is made up of complex combinations of amino acids and has a good similarity with the skin. They help retain water and reduce water loss on the skin’s surface.

PUMICE: Finely ground volcanic rock to cleanse and slough off dead skin.

PUMPKIN: Enzymes in the whole “pumpkin”, including the seeds, exfoliate dead skin cells while promoting skin repair. It cleanses, conditions and moisturizes while helping to firm the skin. Pumpkin is an excellent source of anti-oxidants, vitamins and essential elements the skin needs.

RASPBERRY: Rich in minerals, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), flavonoids, tannins, and ellagic acid, a super antioxidant. Soothing, astringent and exfoliating. Percentage of AHAs: 10 citric, 5 glycolic, 8malic, 2 lactic.

RAW CANE SUGAR: Rich in “natural” glycolic acids, it has cellular renewal properties. Raw sugar cane is particularly rich in mucilage, thus being softening and moisturizing to the skin. Percentage AHAs: 2.5 citric, 15 glycolic, 2.5malic, 5 lactic.

RETINYL PALMITATE: Vitamin A; a primary anti-oxidant, free radical scavenger and cell renewal ingredient.

RICE BRAN OIL: Rich in vitamin E. It has a smaller molecule than wheat germ oil making it much easier to penetrate the skin. Contains high percentages of oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids.

ROSEHIPS: The fruit of the rose bush, high in vitamin C; tonic, astringent, soothing to the skin.

ROSEMARY: Cleansing, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, moisturizing, softening, rejuvenating.

SAFFLOWER OIL: High in linoleic acid.

SALICYLIC ACID: Occurs naturally in wintergreen leaves, sweet birch and other plants. Topically it is an anesthetic, a sunscreen and a fungicide with a mild peeling effect.

SEA ALGAE/SEA KELP: See ALGAE.

SEA BUCKTHORN: Grows on the sand dunes by the sea and produces a yellow berry. The liquid wax from the berry is very compatible with the lipid structure of the skin and provides strong water retentive and skin moisturizing qualities.

SEA PALM: Very rich in potassium, beta-carotenoids, and a wealth of co-enzymes and trace minerals. It is known as the most elastic of all seaweeds and used as a connective tissue enhancer.

SEAWEED ESSENTIAL OIL: A CO-2 microburst extraction of French kelp varieties of seaweed; it yields aromatic oil and the protoplasmic bio-substance of the ocean to help open the capillaries in the skin's tissues bringing up much needed nutrients and oxygen from deep within the skin.

SHEA BUTTER: Shea butter is an emollient. It is extremely therapeutic, helping to heal cracked, aged and damaged skin. Shea butter penetrates the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth. It has vitamin A, E and is highly compatible with skin. Shea butter has a high content of unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters, which have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties and provide protection from the UV rays of the sun.

SOAP BARK: Healing properties, emulsifier.

SOAPWORT: Cleansing and healing properties.

SORBITOL: Derived from apples, cherries, berries, plums, pears, sea algae and seaweed. Feels velvet- smooth applied on the skin. Used as a humectant, emulsifier and thickener in formulations.

SOYBEAN OIL: Rich in fatty acids and vitamin E; readily absorbs into the skin.

SQUALANE: An exquisite natural oil derived from olives, that moisturizes the skin and helps enhance skin’s natural barrier function. Protects the skin against the elements and boosts the skin’s ability to retain moisture. It is a natural bactericide and healer.

STEARIC ACID: (Vegetable). A white, waxy, fatty acid used as an emulsifying agent.

STRAWBERRY: Soothing, astringent, and firming; strawberries contain more vitamin C than an orange and also contains ellagic acid, a super antioxidant.

TAMARIND: Is a large evergreen tree that grows in the tropics. Percentage of AHAs: 10 citric, 5 malic, 10 tartaric.

TANNIN ACID: An astringent vegetable product found in a wide variety of plants. Sources include the bark of oak, hemlock, chestnut, and mangrove; the leaves of certain sumacs; and plant galls.

TEA TREE OIL: (Melaleuca alternifolia). From the leaves of the Australian tea tree, this oil is used to treat acne, cuts, burns, insect bites, fungus and other skin and scalp disorders.

TIME RELEASE LIPOSOME COMPLEX: A range of vitamin and herbal phyto-active supplements to be time delivered into the skin for a continuous gentle release of vital nutrients.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE: A natural white powder mineral with the distinction of being a class one, full spectrum sunscreen. In cosmetic use it has the greatest concealing power of all white pigments.

TOCOPHEOL: Vitamin E. An anti-oxidant and cellular renewal ingredient that when combined with vitamins A and C, acts as a preservative in the oil phase of cosmetic formulations.

TOMATO: See Lycopene.

THYME: Anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory with astringent properties that help firm collagen in the skin.

ULTRAMARINE BLUE: An inorganic, FDA-approved, high-purity pigment

ULTRAMARINE PINK: An inorganic, FDA-approved, high-purity pigment

ULTRAMARINE VIOLET: An inorganic, FDA-approved, high-purity pigment

ULVA: A sea plant known as “sea lettuce” because of its bright green lettuce like leaf; a high source of soluble iron, potassium, and complex polysaccharides compatible with natural skin oils.

UVA URSI: Bearberry (or manzanita). It is the astringency of the tannin acid on the berries and leaves of this plant that make them work well as a natural source of hydroquinone (pigment lightener).

VITAMIN A: A powerful free-radical scavenger used as an anti-aging and healing ingredient. Topically applied vitamin A is one of only three vitamins able to be absorbed by the skin. The other two are vitamins E and D.

VITAMIN C: See Ascorbic Acid.

VITAMIN D: One of only three vitamins, topically applied, that are absorbed by the skin (the other two are vitamins A and E). Vitamin D is necessary for the re-production of new skin cells.

VITAMIN E: See Tocopherol.

WAKAME: A fern like member of the kelp family, rich in bio-available amino acids and vitamins, making it a highly nutritious food source for the skin.

WATERMELON: High in Vitamin A, beta-carotene and zinc; it soothes and softens the skin.

WITCH HAZEL: See Hamamalis Water.

WHEAT GERM OIL: A natural source of vitamins A, E and D, and squalane.

WILLOW BARK: A source of salicin, the chemical that led to the introduction of aspirin, considered to be the natural form and origin of the modern day aspirin. An anti-inflammatory agent delivered to the skin cells in liposomes that enhance penetration through the epidermis. Causes a mild keratolytic effect making it an excellent ingredient for acne treatment products.

XANTHAN GUM: A natural carbohydrate gum used as a thickener and emulsion stabilizer.

YARROW: Moisturizing, softening, and soothing with mild astringency.

YEAST: A calming extract. When combined with glycosaminoglycans and glycopolysaccarides. They help:

  1. Increase superficial and deep skin firmness.
  2. Increase collagen synthesis and reduce wrinkles.
  3. Increase moisture.
  4. Increase skin clarity

YLANG-YLANG OIL: A natural antiseptic essential oil with soothing properties.

YUCCA: Cleansing, soothing.

ZINC: A natural mineral. Calming, with osmosis and diffusion qualities.

ZINC OXIDE: A natural “skin protecting” sunscreen agent; antiseptic, and astringent.

     
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